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Automatic Transmissions and Thrust Bearings

Transmissions and Torrington or Flat Bearings

Transmissions and Torrington or Flat Bearings

All automatic transmissions or manual tranny’s make extensive use of bearings inside. There are several varieties of bearings we can discuss. Today we limit of discussion to flat bearings, commonly called torrington bearings, by the company who designed them, Torrington. Here are the flat bearing most commonly used in automotive transmissions and power-plants.

Thrust Bearings
# 1. Thrust bearings absorb axial loads from rotating shafts into the stationary housings or mounts in which they are turning. Axial loads are those transmitted linearly along the shaft. Good examples of axial loads are the forward thrust on boats or prop-driven airplanes as a result of their propeller’s rapid rotation. Thrust bearings are also used in power drills, where the user puts their weight into a rotating bit to drill through tough materials. The lazy-suzan in your kitchen has a flat bearing on the bottom.

Pure Thrust Bearings
#2. Pure thrust bearings are so termed because they only resolve axial forces from the rotating component into their mounting and not radial forces. As in other types of bearings, there are two major groupings of these bearings, sliding bearings and rolling bearings. An example of a sliding thrust bearing is a thrust washer which is a low-friction material between the shaft and the bearing journal along the rotating component. Types of rolling thrust bearings are ball thrust bearings, and specialized tapered roller bearings.

Combination Bearings
# 3. Many motors and machines use combination bearings which resolve both axial and radial forces with one bearing. These can be tapered roller bearings such as those used on automotive wheels, cup type ball bearings working in unison such as those on small ball bearing wheels on wagons and carts. They can also be deep groove caged ball bearings.

Combination bearings control the rotational motion around the shaft, and carry the weight of the vehicle. They also limit side to side movement along the shaft, such as when cornering hard in a sports car. In this capacity, they function as thrust bearings. Combination bearings are used in applications where the thrust loading might be coincidental or relatively small compared to the radial loading. Pure thrust bearings are used in applications where thrust loads are the predominant forces transmitted by the rotating components into their stationary containment.

Be the person who can answer questions such as this. Education comes in handy when you are shopping for transmissions. Call the specialists at GotTransmissions.com for any information you need. 866-320-1182.

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What Is A Shift Valve To Automatic Transmissions?

Shift Valves-Automatic Transmissions

Shift Valves-Automatic Transmissions

All automatic transmissions have a brain of sorts. We call this part a valve body. Reason being is there are plenty of ” shift valves” in a valve body that control hydraulic pressure by overcoming the force of a return spring, allowing the fluid to flow into the correct passage ways to perform it’s tasks.

The manual valve is what the shifter lever hooks up to. Depending on which gear is selected, the manual valve feeds hydraulic circuits that cause certain gear ratios. For instance, if the shift lever is in third gear, it feeds a circuit that shifts from 1st to second to third gear, yet prevents overdrive from engaging.

Shift valves allow hydraulic pressure to the clutch drums and band apply mechanisms to engage each gear. The valve body of the transmission contains the shift valves. The shift valve determines when to shift from one gear to the next. For instance, the 1 to 2 shift valve determines when to shift from first to second gear. The shift valve is pressurized with fluid from the governor on one side, and the throttle valve on the other. They are supplied with fluid by the pump, and they route that fluid to one of two circuits to control which gear the car runs in.

The shift valve will delay a shift if the car is accelerating quickly. If the car accelerates gently, the shift will occur at a lower speed. Let’s discuss what happens when the car accelerates gently.

As car speed increases, the pressure from the governor builds. This forces the shift valve over until the first gear circuit is closed, and the second gear circuit opens. Since the car is accelerating at light throttle, the throttle valve does not apply much pressure against the shift valve.

When the car accelerates quickly, the throttle valve applies more pressure against the shift valve spring. This means that the pressure from the governor has to be higher (and the vehicle speed will be faster) before the shift valve overcomes the springs force to engage second gear.

Each shift valve responds to a particular pressure range; so when the car is going faster, the 2-to-3 shift valve will take over, because the pressure from the governor is high enough to trigger that valve.

Shift valves can wear out. When a valve strokes back and forth in it’s bore for over 100,000 miles, it is very possible to experience wear in the bore, valve or both, causing shift problems. With this in mind, every rebuilt transmission has the valve body visually examined by a human before we put it on a valve body tester to insure your success.

Want to choose the best transmissions for sale? Call 866-320-1182 and speak with one of our representatives about why our transmissions are in your best interests, all in terms you will understand. GotTransmissions.com.

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Are Toyota Prius Transmissions For Sale Yet?

Toyota Prius Transmissions For Sale

Toyota Prius Transmissions For Sale

Toyota Prius Transmission Question: I am not sure whether I am having a transaxle issue, battery issue, or inverter issue… When I get into my car at the end of the day after it has sat outside in the heat I experience a condition where the car hesistates to go when the accelerator is pressed. There is a one to two second pause from the time that I press the accelerator pedal to the time that the car actually starts moving. If I move my foot on the accelerator pedal any at all, the car jerks and hesistates as if the transaxle is slipping. It does not act the same way as if the SOC of the battery was low. The battery charge goes from what ever it was when I first parked it down to one bar. Once that happens I get no regen braking. I thought that it was the A/C load that I was putting on the system, so I raised the temp up to 85 and that had no effect. Tried driving with the windows down to let out the heat but that has had no effect either. The engine runs constantly (which is expected due to the heat and the battery SOC). When the temp is lower (in the mornings) I do not have this issue. I do hear the battery fan running. My main concern is the way that the car behaves when accelerating or even crusing. I am concerned that if someone else drives the car (my wife) that they will not know that the car hesitates and get into an accident. I don’t think this issue is normal, even due to the heat as there are alot of Priuses around here. Anyone else experience this issue or have any suggestions? The inverter pump failed early this summer and was replaced so I am thinking it could be that rather than a transaxle issue. Vehicle is MY 2004 with 78k miles. Mileage has taken a nose dive this summer to the upper 30’s, FWIW.

Possibility: First, fuel economy in the upper 30s in the midst of an Arizona summer doesn’t surprise me if your driving is mostly at non-highway speeds. The AC really pulls fuel economy down at low speeds; it forces the ICE (internal combustion engine) to run considerably more than it would otherwise.

Second, the transmission has nothing to “slip” (I’m not dismissing your symptoms). There is no changing of gears in the Prius’ continuously variable transmission.

One of the first things to come to mind is “hot battery.” When the battery and the rest of the hybrid system reach a certain high temperature, the car takes steps to reduce battery use (using it heats it more). The battery fan runs, as you’ve observed. Because the electric motor is doing less work, its normally-available immediate torque is reduced and the ICE, with less instantaneous torque, is doing more of the work. I can see how what seems like the sensation of a slipping transmission can be felt in those conditions.

The last way to solve the problem is to locate a sharp automotive technician with excellent diagnostic skills. With the proper information, tools and skills the problem can be solved. Has anyone out there experienced this problem? GotTransmissions.com supplies replacement transmissions, we also supply quality auto information for free. Call us @ 866-320-1182 and speak to a representative now.

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Ford Scorpio Transmissions For Sale

The Scorpio Ford Auto Transmissions are complex items and is entirely controlled by the EEC-V Power-train Control Module (PCM) that computes engine load, road speed and internal turbine speed and selects the appropriate gear by engaging electronic solenoids to control gear shifts.

Experience has shown that it is generally very reliable, however some specific problems have been identified and their diagnosis and suggested repairs are available on this site.

INITIAL CHECKS:
Drive the car until the engine and auto transmission is at operating temperature. Park on a level surface and leave the engine running. Pull the tranny dipstick and check for:-

A. The fluid level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick.

B. The fluid is a good red color when you wipe the dipstick on a lint-free white cloth. Provided that the fluid is at a good level, it is a good pink/red color and has a clean oil smell and there is no black debris on the dipstick then the auto gearbox is in generally good condition and should be working correctly.

C. If the gearbox fluid is a good red but there are drive-ability concerns (rising revs and thumping into gear, slipping out of top gear, torque lockup slipping in and out, Overdrive Light flashing) then there is a drive-ability concern. If the speedometer is erratic as well then the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) has probably failed, or the wiring connection is faulty and is not necessarily a fault with the box.

Meet with the owner of a repair shop who has a diagnostics-equipped garage and have them read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes from the On Board Diagnostic system – it may be possible to repair a single solenoid or sensor without reconditioning the whole transmission.

D. If the Transmission is working satisfactorily and the fluid is still a red color but there is some black sludge gathered round the dipstick then have the gearbox sump removed and the filter changed without delay. You may have noticed the gearbox might be a little sluggish, perhaps a loud turbine noise when moving off from rest. This is the ATF pump trying to pull fluid through the gungy filter. You need a new filter, sump gasket and 6 quarts of factory automatic fluid. Action now may save much greater damage.

E. If the dipstick shows fluid a brown color with a burnt smell then there is bad news. The fluid has been overheated and/or there is band friction material contamination of the fluid.

Note: Changing the filter and fluid will be a waste of money because the unit will fail at some time in the near future. This is so even if the trans. is working correctly – in this case failure may be sudden and total (ie selecting any gear other than P or D immediately stalls the engine), or the box will drop one gear after another until it limits engine torque and you limp home at 19 mph. If you find your auto fluid in this state then join the AAA immediately because you will need a tow at some stage.

Performance Concerns
1. If your Auto gearbox demonstrates a heavy vibration when changing gear, similar to driving over a grid then read the page about this fault here.

2. If your Auto Transmission does not appear to choose the correct gear, you lose overdrive 4th gear or the torque converter fails to lockup correctly then it may just need the MAF cleaning.

3. If the auto-box is not changing gear correctly and the speedometer is erratic as well, then the VSS is suspect and there may not be a problem with the unit at all. If the TR sensor is faulty it would also cause faulty changing but the speedometer will remain unaffected. However, both will generate an error code on OBD so it would be easy to determine which is the culprit.

4. If cleaning the MAF has no effect and the speedometer works correctly then you should check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). It costs between $60 and $90 to have the codes read by a specialist.

5. If you have a coolant leak that cannot be traced and the gearbox fluid shows rapid deterioration then suspect the radiator, It may be leaking coolant into the auto fluid through the heat exchanger on the nearside. Change the radiator immediately and replace the auto fluid and filter.

6. If your Auto is behaving badly (especially after rain or washing) and DTCs are changing or coming and going, take it to a professional for diagnosis.

If all else fails and you end up having to replace the transmission, give some thought to calling GotTransmissions.com, the leading online transmission supply company in the USA. We have outperformed our competition by offering the best replacement automatic transmissions of all, with pure value built into every transmission. Call us now at 866-320-1182.

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Transfer Cases for GMC and Chevy Vehicles

Chevy Transfer Cases For Sale

Chevy Transfer Cases For Sale

GM used part-time, gear drive, cast iron transfer cases for all 4×4 models from 1958 to 1972. The Dana Model 24 equipped the first factory production GM 4×4 trucks in 1958 and 1959. Rockwell supplied the 4-shaft, T221 unit from 1960 to 1969. The T221 was reasonably strong, but it was often difficult to seal against oil leaks. The T221 also had some problems with inadequate lubrication of the ball bearing at the back of the input shaft plus some other issues related to it’s inefficient, yet costly design. Early Blazer and Jimmy SUV’s built in 1969 and 1970 had the small Dana 20.

The Dana 20 was arguably the best transfer cases installed in 1 Ton and smaller trucks, first appeared in 1/2 and 3/4 ton pickups starting in late 1969. For 1973, GM introduced the heavy, cast iron, NP203 chain-drive, full-time transfer case and used it on most automatic transmission equipped trucks through the 1979 model year.

Despite it’s extreme weight and rugged front range section, the 3-section NP203 was overall a fairly weak unit due in part to it’s chain drive and inner-axle differential. Many fuel-sucking 203’s were converted to part time by a variety of conversion kits that modified the differential and disconnected the chain and front output shaft from the rear output shaft. Most conversion kits were poorly engineered and none solved the lubrication issues resulting from the conversion because the NP203 depended upon the chain to carry oil up to the upper shafts.

Very few converted 203’s lasted more than a year or two before suffering expensive lubrication related failures. Interestingly, the NP203 front range section is now in demand as a doubler box for providing double low range capabilities on custom offroad rigs. The rugged and reliable, part-time, NP205 with a fixed rear output shaft was also used from 1973-1979, primarily on vehicles with the SM465 4 speed manual transmission.

The NP205 was the sole transfer case choice for all 1980 GM 4×4’s and all 1981-1991 K/V 1 ton 4×4’s with the square body style. GM used an ill-starred, fully synchronized version of the NP205 on trucks with automatic hubs beginning in 1982. Most 1980 to 1991 GM NP205 Transfer Cases use a Slip Yoke type rear output. The 1991 V3500 was the last GM production model equipped with a NP205.

Starting in 1981 and used through 1988, GM full-size trucks of up to 3/4 ton rating came with the lightly built, synchronized, aluminum housing, NP208 chain drive, part-time transfer case. The 208 used a planetary gear set for low range, which has been used on all subsequent 2 speed transfer cases used by GM.

Manual Shift NP241 transfer cases debuted in 1988, while the electric shift NP243 version of the same case hit the market in 1991. GM has also used a plethora of other cases in various full size models from 1988 on including the Borg Warner 1370/1372 (1988-2000), Borg Warner 4401/4470 (1989-2000), Borg Warner 4481/4483 (intro 2003), New Venture 261 Manual Shift (1999-2007), New Venture 263 Electric Shift (1999-2007), New Process 243 Electric Shift (1994-2007), New Venture 246 (1998-2007), New Venture 4481/4482 Single Speed (intro 2003), and starting in 2007 cases from Magna Corporation (Magna now owns the New Process Plant in Syracuse, NY which produced New Process and New Venture Transfer Cases.). GM 4500 and 5500 Medium Duty trucks use a remote mount, electric shift, NP273.

GM introduced the mid-size S10/15 series 4×4’s in 1983 which initially used a NP207 chain drive case. The NP207 was used until 1988. Subsequent mid-size 4×4’s used mostly New Process/New Venture units including the 136 Single Speed plus the following 2 speed models: 231 Manual Shift, 233 Electric Shift, and 246. Borg Warner 4472 cases equip some 1995-1997 4×4’s.

Enough technical stuff. It is 98% accurate. You get the idea here, I have been a transmission repair person for over 30 years. It is obvious that I have worked on many of the above transfer cases or I would not have such a detailed memory of them.

I can say with good authority that the older model transfer cases will come as rebuilt transfer cases only. It is risky to sell an old used transfer case, however we do supply the newer model transfer cases in low mileage used units. You have transfer case questions, we have realistic answers, Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.

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The Third Way To Vent Automatic Transmissions.

Transmissions For Sale

Transmissions For Sale

The third way to do this will work on practically any car with a transmission dipstick tube. It requires some brazing or light welding. It has been used on some of the old AMC or Ramblers that outsourced their transmissions to Borg Warner in the 1950,s and ’60’s and even some more modern cars. It is a very effective method of venting a transmission and being able to run a hose to a higher point on the vehicle.

What we want to do is buy a 1 foot long piece of 5/16 of an inch outer diameter metal brake tubing. The point is to drill a 5/16 ” hole in the dipstick about 2/3″ from the bottom. Or, close to the top of the dipstick. Cut one of the flared ends of of the piece of brake line. You will need to silver solder the 5/16” brake line or braze the brake line into the hole in the dipstick. Insert the brake-line about 1” into the dipstick, leaving most of the brake-line exposed. Silver solder or braze the metal brake-line to the metal dipstick all the way around. After the piece of metal is cooled down, cut the long piece of brake-line sticking out of the dipstick tube to about 4” long. After the dipstick is reinstalled with a new dipstick o-ring, attach a piece of 5/16” inner diameter transmission rubber hose to the piece of brake-line extending out of the dipstick and run it to the top of the firewall.

For all practical purposes this is a universal method of venting a transmission, automatic or not. I have personally done it many times at my transmission shop on jobs where we would install an overdrive transmission in place of an outdated 3 speed transmission. Sometimes we did custom hot-rod transmission work.

No matter, if you don’t have proper ventilation to your automatic transmission, it will eventually find other places to vent ATF and spring a leak.

Find out how to vent your transmission in other ways in our blog or simply enjoy more cost saving articles for your car. Our specialty is selling replacement transmissions. Got a transmission problem or question? Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.

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Ford AOD, AOD-E And 4R70W Transmissions

Save Money: Ford Rebuilt Transmissions

Save Money: Ford Rebuilt Transmissions

Ford’s Automatic OverDrive (AOD) transmission was introduced in 1980 as an answer to demands for higher fuel economy, lower vehicle emissions, and improved vehicle drive-ability. The AOD was a new transmission design into which various design features of existing Ford automatic transmissions were incorporated. The AOD was one of the first transmissions of its type in the automotive industry and also one of the simplest by design.

The AOD gear train design was based somewhat around the gear train of the FMX/Cruise-O-Matic transmission which (in one form or another) has been part of Ford’s automatic transmission history for decades. This gear train incorporates a compound (six-pinion) planetary gear unit, utilizing one planetary carrier, rather than two or three single planet carriers. This design was probably used because of the minimal changes needed to “add” overdrive to it. In fact, the FMX, AOD and AOD-E/4R70W are the only modern Ford transmissions which share the compound planetary design.

The reasons for using an AOD (or AOD-E), instead of a C-4 or C-6 transmission in your performance vehicle are obvious. The primary advantage of using an AOD is the potential for fuel efficiency with no resultant sacrifice in performance, thanks to the 2/3-1 overdrive ratio which made the AOD a clear choice for Ford Motor Company, as well as its customers.

For example, mathematically speaking, even a steep 3.73-1 rear axle ratio becomes a 2.49-1 ratio during fourth gear cruise (3.73 x 2/3 = 2.49), allowing about 1000 less engine RPM at highway speeds. Not only does the AOD provide a better cruising ratio than a three-speed automatic, but it also serves to further increase fuel mileage, engine life and overall efficiency by bypassing the torque converter in fourth (and partially in third) gear through the direct input shaft. This is a precursor to the A4LD, E4OD and AOD-E/4R70W transmissions which use a converter clutch to perform the same function under EEC control (providing much better performance).

The AOD-E/4R70W is the latest and best Ford performance transmission, and in our opinion, represents the foreseeable future of performance rear-wheel-drive automatic transmission technology.

Although the AOD is long been out of production and was problematic at first, we have been able to upgrade our rebuilt AOD units to be very reliable and affordable. We understand that our customers deserve the best Ford transmissions money can buy, and they deserve them.

We make sure pure value is built right into every transmission we sell. Call GotTransmissions.com for realistic answers to your questions for free. 866-320-1182.

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CVT Car Transmissions Available Now

Pruis CVT Continuously Variable Transmissions

Pruis CVT Continuously Variable Transmissions

Continuously Variable Transmissions have a low gear ratio and a high gear ratio with a mechanism that allows a seamless and infinitely variable amount of ratios in-between. One advantage of a CVT is the ability to keep the power plants RPM’s (revolutions per minute) in it’s most efficient power output range for all operating conditions.

Most Chrysler, Ford, GM, Honda, and Nissan CVT’s use a drive belt and two variable size pulleys to deliver power to the transaxle final drive planetary gear set.

The Toyota Prius with Hybrid Synergy Drive, Toyota Camry HV with HSD, Toyota Highlander HV with HSD, Ford Escape Hybrid, and Mercury Mariner Hybrid use a gasoline engine and two electric motor-generators (MG1 and MG2) connected to a planetary gear set called the “Power Split Device” to deliver power to the transaxle final drive planetary gear set.

CVT’s have not been successfully developed for light duty pickups and large SUV type vehicles yet. They are available to the construction industry for some of the tremendous equipment used for road work and large construction. The term transmission in the case of construction equipment can apply to any device that needs a transmission to ”split” power or ”transfer” power from devise to devise.

The idea of CVT is not new either. When I was about 10 years old (in the early 60’s) my dad bought a riding lawnmower. I remember the transmission. I know now it was a very simple CVT design using a large drive wheel mounted to the output side of the engine which turned a smaller rubber drive wheel that was on the input side of the CVT.

Since a CVT has infinitely variable gear ratios, it should never have an amount of gears attached to the name. For instance, a 3 speed or 5 speed CVT. No such thing.

It is all the more important to take care of your CVT because of the lack of qualified vendors. The GotTransmissions.com tech staff recommends following the factory guidelines for maintenance to a tee. Going as a far as using the factory CVT fluid upon maintenance. Call us @ 866-320-1182 to address your questions about transmissions from an expert.

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What can damage your automatic transmission.

Most automatic transmissions troubles start from overheating. You already know that if you follow our blog.

Under heavy loads, such as towing a heavy trailer, rocking the vehicle from the snow, having continuous stop and go traffic in hot weather, racing, etc. the transmission overheats. At higher temperatures the transmission fluid burns, losing its lubricating qualities and becomes oxidized leaving deposits all over the inside the transmission.

Exposed to the heat the rubber seals and gaskets inside the transmission become hardened causing leaks. The metal parts warp and lose their strength. All this, sooner or later, results in transmission failure. For example, a friend of mine burned the transmission when he was spinning the wheels too hard trying to free his shiny Audi from the sand on the next day after he bought it!

However, overheating is not the only reason – sometimes transmissions break down because of poor design, due to lack of maintenance or after being rebuilt by inexperienced technician. A few other reasons: harsh driving, too low or too high transmission fluid level or wrong transmission fluid type – a person I know added gear oil into the automatic transmission… guess, what happen? – the transmission died after 40 minutes of driving!

Suggestions on preventing damaging your automatic transmission:

– Regularly check your parking space for leaks. Doesn’t matter, is it the engine oil leak, power steering fluid or transmission fluid; if you discover any, get it fixed before it caused something serious.
– Monthly in a while check the transmission fluid level and condition. Not all cars however have the automatic transmission dipstick, in some cars, for example, in late Volkswagen models, the transmission fluid can only be checked by the dealer. Consult with your owner’s manual for details. If the transmission fluid level is too low, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.
– Change the fluid as often as it said in your owner’s manual or when it becomes too dark (rather brown than red) or dirty.
Also, keep in mind that an automatic transmission can not be drained completely – there is always some transmission fluid left inside the transmission (the torque converter, in the valve body, etc.) which means you only can change about %60 of the fluid at once. This is one more reason to change it more often.
– Use only the same type of the transmission fluid as specified in the owner’s manual or on the dipstick. Some vehicles (e.g Dodge Caravan) are very sensitive to fluid type
– Never shift to the Reverse or Parking until the car comes to a complete stop.
– Never shift from the Parking mode when engine rpm is higher than normal idle.
– Always hold a brakes down when shifting from Parking.
– The automatic transmission can be damaged if towing with the drive wheels on the road. Always use a dolly or place powered wheels on the towing platform (if the vehicle is front wheel drive – tow it from the front leaving rear wheels on the road.

Practice the above preventive measures and you can get the maximum life out of your cars transmission. For more information take a look at more of our blog post, we write them for you. If you would like to speak with a person, Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.

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Does Water Cause Problems With Automatic Transmissions?

Absolutely, water or radiator coolant is like RIP to transmissions. Standard transmissions don’t like water either, so those of you with standards may want to pay attention.

One of my friends with a Ford F-150 pickup and were chatting about his Ford Trucks’ automatic transmission the other day. It had water in it and was acting up. So I told him he was probably looking at sort of replacement transmission. Either a rebuilt transmission or a good used one. The truck had something like 150,000 miles on it anyway.

I received an email from him recently about, how could the water have entered his transmission and also about what I thought in terms of replacing his transmission. You see I know where Smitty lives. He lives in an area that could get some deep water in the culverts and we have had a lot of rain.

Basically, through good reasoning we determined the water entered the transmission through the vent tube in the transmission case. This, as opposed to the radiator going bad and coolant entering the transmission that way. He knew the truck has been in some deep water so we concluded it was from the recent rain.

With that in mind we spoke about how to prevent that from happening again after during the process of replacing the trucks transmission.

Here are my suggestions. Some transmissions have a small tube that is on the top of the case. In that instance, it is easy to attach the proper sized rubber hose over the tube and run it to the top of the inner fender or firewall. Don’t just wire tie it, take some time to make a bracket.

If the tube in the above paragraph is pressed into the transmission case. I would advise you to remove the tube ( as long as you can remove it without damaging it or the case) and put some Red Locktite in it so it won’t come out.

Some transmissions have a vent plug in the case. If this is so, then in many instances the plug can be removed and the hole it comes out of can be tapped and then you can install a nipple. I would be careful to make sure that you can tap it to the size of an established nipple size.

Generally speaking this will be a pipe threat, like a male 3/4” pipe tap. Then you can install a nipple with a male 3/8” pipe thread into the female hole you tapped threads into using some some Teflon tape, and then run a rubber hose to the firewall as in the above description.

The last way to do it will be described tomorrow because I want you come back with a fresh mind while my right shoulder gets a break for the day. Oh, BTW, the transmissions style or type does not matter, as in, a manual, standard or automatic transmission. Enjoy. GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.

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